The Road to Kazakhstan’s Forbidden Soviet Base: Emba-5 Still Hides Secrets
Emba 5, now known as Zhem, is a former Soviet military base located in western Kazakhstan. Once part of a Cold War testing complex, it has been mostly abandoned and faded from use. The road to reach it is long, rough, and passes through remote terrain, but it's still possible to get there by car. Here's what to know about the site - and the road that leads to it.
What’s Emba‑5?
Emba‑5 (also spelled Embi‑5) was once a missile and air defense test site used by the Soviet Union. It operated as a closed military zone. After the collapse of the USSR, the Russian military continued using the base until the 1990s. It was later handed back to Kazakhstan and renamed Zhem, though much of it was left unused.
Where is Emba‑5?
Emba‑5 is located in Aktobe Region, in the west of Kazakhstan, between the towns of Kandyagash and Shalkar. The area is flat, open, and distant from major cities.
Is Emba‑5 still active?
No. Emba‑5 is a ghost town—mostly abandoned and largely off-limits. Locals describe it as a sealed enclave with crumbling military structures, once impenetrable without official permission. Although authorities in Kazakhstan ratified a protocol in 2016 to reclaim the site from Russia and formally terminate its lease, public information on restoration or reuse remains minimal. Abandoned, minimally accessible, with no formal public use, the site is a leftover from the Cold War era.
Can I get to Emba‑5 by car?
Yes. The site is reachable by car via the A‑26 road. It passes directly through the town of Zhem. No special permits are required to drive the road, but travelers should be prepared for rough conditions and limited infrastructure.
How long is the road to Emba‑5?
The road from Kandyagash to Shalkar, passing through Emba‑5, is approximately 257 km (159 miles). It runs in a north–south direction through remote terrain.
Is the road to Emba‑5 paved?
The road was originally paved, but lack of maintenance has left many sections damaged or unpaved. There are large potholes and long stretches of dirt and gravel. A 4x4 vehicle is recommended, especially in bad weather or winter months.
Is there anything to see in Emba‑5?
The town still contains military ruins and abandoned housing blocks. Most structures are empty or collapsing. Visitors may see watchtowers, barriers, or bunkers, but there is no formal access, signage, or information at the site. There are few residents, and no tourist services.