Through the vast deserts of Western Australia, the Canning Stock Route is one of the toughest and most remote tracks in the world. It runs to Halls Creek from Wiluna, both in Western Australia. With a total distance of around 1,850 km (1,150 mi) it is also the longest historic stock route in the world.
The nearest capital city to the Wiluna starting point of the route is Perth, 958 km (595 mi) south west of Wiluna by road. Then to return to Perth via sealed roads from Halls Creek it's 2,857 km (1,775 mi). Including the Canning route this gives a total driving distance of 5,665 km (3,520 mi). For the first few hundred kilometres it runs concurrent with the Tanami Track. Cattlemen 100 years ago pushed this 1,100-mile route through the desert, digging more than 50 wells along its length. Recreational 4WD convoys can now cross the desolation with the aid of fuel drops, forging endless sand and sun-baked earth to traverse one of the least habitable places on the planet.
In the beginning of the 20th century, Kimberley cattlemen were looking for a way to traverse the western deserts of Australia with their cattle as a way to break the eastern states monopoly that controlled the supply of beef to Western Australia. Kimberley cattle were infested with Boophilus ticks infected with a malaria-like parasitic disease called Babesiosis and were prohibited from access to Western Australian markets due to a fear that the ticks would spread. After it was determined that ticks could not survive a desert crossing, the government funded a survey to find a stock route that would cross the Great Sandy Desert, the Little Sandy Desert and the Gibson Desert.
The route, which crossed the territories of nine different Aborigine language groups, had been explored previously in 1896 by the Calvert Expedition led by Lawrence Wells and again later that year by the Carnegie Expedition led by David Carnegie. Two members of the Calvert Expedition perished of thirst and the Carnegie also suffered considerable hardships with camels dying after eating poisonous grass and a member accidentally shooting himself dead. Canegie investigated the possibility of a stock route and concluded that the route was "too barren and destitute of vegetation" and was impractical. Wells and Carnegie both mistreated Aborigines, forcing them to cooperate, tying them up and encouraging them to find water by feeding them salt. Carnegie was later publicly criticised for this. Evidence supports that Alfred Canning had read both expedition accounts detailing the treatment of Aborigines and explicitly followed their example for his own expedition.
Starting in 1906 a team of 23 camels, two horses, and eight white men led by Alfred Canning surveyed the route. During the ensuing 14-month survey they trekked about 4,000 km (2,485 mi), relying on Aboriginal guides to help them find water. Canning himself found it difficult to locate desert water sources. In order to gain assistance in locating water along the route, Canning captured several Mardu men, chained them by the neck, forced them to eat salt, and then waited until they got thirsty enough to lead his party to a native well (soak). As many soaks were also sacred, the Mardu often misdirected the explorers with the eventual stock route winding more than was actually necessary. During the 1908 Royal Commission into Cannings mistreatment of Aborigines, Kimberley Explorer and Lord Mayor of Perth, Alexander Forrest dismissed Canning's actions by claiming that all explorers behaved in this manner. The Commission accepted the actions as "reasonable" and the expedition members were exonerated of other charges, including raping Aboriginal women and stealing property.
In 1908 Canning, along with 30 men, 70 camels, four wagons, 100 tonnes of food and equipment and 267 goats (for milk and meat) travelled the route again to construct wells at the 54 water sources identified by his earlier expedition. Canning completed the last of 48 wells in 1910 bringing the total cost of the route to £22000 (2010: $A2.6 million).However, Canning had constructed the wells in the European tradition, making the water inaccessible to Aborigines. Many were injured or died while trying to access the water, either falling in and drowning or breaking bones on the windlass handle. By 1917, Aborigines had completely dismantled most of the wells. Canning's party had constructed the wells with the forced help of one of the Aboriginal people whose land the route traversed, the Mardu. The first commercial droving began in 1910, 42 horses of which only nine survived the journey. The first mob of bullocks to use the track left in January 1911, however the three drovers and their Aboriginal stockman were killed by Aborigines. A police expedition led by sergeant Pilmer set out to find the culprits and, despite not capturing any of the perpetrators, was considered a success after killing 19 Aborigines near the site of the murders. Despite police protection drovers were afraid to use the track and it was rarely used for almost 20 years.It was reported on the 7th of September 1911 that the first mob of cattle had successfully arrived in Wiluna, apparently having gained condition on the long drove.
In 1929 William Snell was commissioned to repair the wells and found that the ones that Aborigines could use were undamaged. Snell abandoned the work after well 35, accounts vary reporting that he either ran out of materials or the desert became too much for him. Alfred Canning (then aged 70) was commissioned to complete the work in 1930. While Snell encountered no problems, Canning had trouble with the Aborigines from the start but completed the commission in 1931. Between 1911 and 1931, only eight mobs of cattle had used the route.
With these improvements, the route was used on a more "regular" basis although in total, it would only be used around 20 times between 1931 and 1956 when the last droving run was completed. None of the larger station owners used the track as it was found that only 600 head of cattle could be supported at a time which was 200 less than was estimated when first completed. As Carnegie had accurately reported in 1896, the track was impractical for cattle drives.
During the Second World War the track was upgraded at considerable expense in case it was needed for an evacuation of the north if Australia was invaded. Including horse drives there have been only 37 recorded drives between 1910 and the last run in 1956.
The Canning Stock route is considered one of the world’s great four-wheel drive adventures. Apart from keeping the road open, the route is not maintained, some wells have been restored but others are in ruins and unusable. While quite a few travellers successfully make the trip, it still requires substantial planning and a convoy of well-equipped four-wheel drives or equivalent vehicles.
Those wishing to tackle the route should be extremely well prepared before setting out. Outback travel experience is required in conjunction with a very reliable and capable vehicle that has been specifically prepared for remote, long distance desert travel. Your vehicle will need to be extensively prepared for remote area travel, with all fuel, water, food, vehicle repair equipment and spare parts.
Is only practical during the cooler months: from april to september inclusive. During this time day time temperatures are pleasantly mild, but at sundown a rapid change takes place and zero and sub zero temperatures will be experienced most nights. Fuel drops typically need to be organised in advance and the 1,850 km (1,150 mi) trip will take two to three weeks.
